MexicoDisney

I have now been to the city of San Miguel de Allende five times. This place has grown on me, from outright revulsion to something I can tolerate and actually enjoy. Now I think I was too harsh on the town at first.

The problem is, the first time I came here I had gone from one extreme culture shock back to another. My first six months or so in Guanajuato, I was very unsettled, still trying to navigate both the linguistic and cultural differences. And I came to San Miguel and ran smack into those Ugly Americans who aren't actually ugly, just rigid, who don't want to have to adjust to the realities that living in another country with another language and culture brings. And you feel really awkward and uncomfortable being polite and appreciative of what they are doing for you personally, but knowing what pains in the asses they are for the people who were here first.

The first time I came here I had been in Guanajuato for about two and a half months. I went to a seder hosted by a couple who had been retired down here for about 20 years and didn't speak a word of Spanish. Nor did any of the other guests at the seder. Colonialism:1, Integration:0.

The second time, my mom and I had gone to Dolores Hidalgo earlier in the day and got to San Miguel in time for a late lunch, with a quick trip to the artisan's market before we headed back to Guanajuato. We were very tired and at that point just wanted to go home. Coffee:1, Initiative:0.

The third time, I went to hot springs just outside of San Miguel with a friend and a couple of her friends. We sat around by the pool, tanned, and hung out. I seem to remember driving through the town to leave it, but I don't think we walked around at all that day.

The fourth time was during the swine flu, with the same friend. There were no tourists anywhere. It was totally awesome. We bought her pretty things to take back home to Colorado, and went out for Thai food. Mediocre Thai food, but better than the non-existent Thai food in Guanajuato.

And today, after my fifth mini-visit, I've finally gotten off my high horse. I came here today, alone, with an agenda. I went to the larger-than-the-one-in-Guanajuato English used book store. I went out for Thai food. I bought some things (both necessary and unnecessary but pretty) at the artisan's market. Now I'm sitting at a cafe, enjoying the change of scenery and relaxing.

...sounds a lot like how I used to go into Cambridge when I was in high school. Some things never change. Needing different scenery is definitely one of them for me.

There's the part of me that still feels kind of awkward knowing that I'm coming here specifically to do things distinctly foreign. And this town isn't really big enough to integrate a foreign population without losing most of its Mexican-ness. It's a little commandeered vacation town. But Mexico City is 5 hours away and I don't have time to go there just for the day.